Some trends disappear after a season. Cowboy Copper became a staple.
More than a year after it first took off, clients are still searching for it and requesting it in the salon. But today’s Cowboy Copper isn’t one formula. It’s a color category that includes rich copper brunettes, soft auburns and cinnamon coppers. That means recreating the trend isn’t about reaching for one formula. It’s about identifying which version your client wants, then customizing the warmth, depth and reflect to match.
Below, we’re breaking down four ways colorists are approaching Cowboy Copper with Redken Shades ALK, plus one application tip that can completely change your final result.
Before you formulate, identify what your client is responding to:
Overall depth (brunette vs. lighter copper)
The amount of warmth
The brightness of the finished result
The level of shine and saturation
When to Use Shades ALK Instead of Shades EQ
Not every demi-permanent service calls for the same color system. Reach for Shades ALK when you need up to one level of lift, up to 75 percent gray blending with select shade families or a richer, more saturated color deposit. While Shades EQ delivers sheer deposit with zero lift, Shades ALK provides deeper saturation, making it a go-to for Cowboy Copper.
For clients who want to dip into Cowboy Copper while maintaining brunette depth, Desiree Alyssa (@desireealyssahair) creates a soft auburn finish with plenty of warmth and dimension.
Formula A (root bump): Redken Shades ALK Clear + 30-volume developer
Formula B (overall color): Shades ALK 7C + 8VG + 9GI + 10-volume Pro-Oxide Cream Developer
Best for: Layering copper with gold-violet and gold-iridescent tones creates a multidimensional auburn finish that feels soft rather than overly orange.
Formulas
Move your cursor across the image to reveal the transformation
Formula #2: The Copper Brunette
Not every Cowboy Copper client wants to get noticeably lighter. For this transformation, Jessenia Spallet (@jesseniaspallet) performed a root lift and color correction before finishing with a rich gloss that keeps the overall result grounded in brunette.
Formula A (global): Redken Shades ALK 7C + 10-volume Pro-Oxide Cream Developer (1:1.5) for 20 minutes
Remember: Don’t panic if the formula looks darker than expected while it’s processing. Shades ALK 7C can appear deeper, even slightly violet, mid-process before revealing its true copper tone after the full 20-minute processing time.
Pro Tip: Dry Hair vs. Damp Hair Changes Your Color Deposit
Application matters just as much as formulation. To break down the difference, Redken Artistic Ambassador Sara Botsford (@sarabotsfordhair) compared Shades ALK on a dry test strand versus a damp test strand.
On Dry Hair
Richer saturation
Fuller color deposit
More opaque finish
On Damp Hair
Softer deposit
More translucent finish
Less saturation
If your goal is a rich, saturated Cowboy Copper, apply your gloss to hair that’s as dry as possible. A damp canvas naturally dilutes the deposit, creating a softer, more sheer result. For clients who are after maximum warmth and longevity, that one application choice can make as much of a difference as the formula itself.
