Honey Brunette Formula Guide: Lift, Placement and Controlled Warmth

Honey brunette is defined by:

• Controlled gold, caramel and warm brown reflects
• Preserved depth through the base and interior
• Strategic brightness that creates movement without high contrast
• A glossy, reflective finish that wears naturally

How Much Should You Lift Before Toning?

Many of Desiree's honey brunette clients begin with a natural Level 1 or 2. She typically lifts to a Level 6 or 7 before refining the color with Redken Shades ALK, preserving enough underlying warmth to support the finished result.

“Sometimes our mind can assume super dark equals lift as much as possible, but in reality you still want to see warmth in the hair once the foils are lifted,” she says. “The post-lift warmth is the secret. It’s a great foundation for controlled warmth.”

But what if the hair doesn't lift as expected?

Desiree adjusts the end goal: “I usually let my client know our new options instead of trying to make our current lift fit our previous expectations. It’s all about pivoting, and I’m not scared to do that for an overall better result.”

When the lift is right, refine it with Redken Shades ALK. Click now to find your perfect honey brunette formula.

How Do You Keep Honey Brunette Warm Without Looking Brassy?

“There really isn’t one undertone that’s always good or always bad. It all comes down to understanding the natural remaining pigment and using it as the foundation for the color you’re trying to achieve.”

Desiree's guide to controlled warmth:

• Rich, deeper brunettes: Orange and small amounts of red help create depth and richness
• Medium honey brunettes: Lift past red while preserving warmth
• Honey blondes: Lift past heavy orange, then preserve or rebuild gold

“Gold is my best friend, so whether that gold is already in the hair or needs to be put in, it’s usually included somewhere for these types of tones,” she explains.

If the finished color feels off, here's what Desiree checks first:

• Too warm? Check whether the exposed natural remaining pigment supports the intended level before reaching for more neutralization
• Too dull? Too much neutralization may have removed the gold needed to keep the finish reflective

When the underlying warmth is working in your favor, the formula can enhance it instead of fighting it. For this lived-in honey brunette, Redken Pro Ambassador and #ONESHOT winner Farhana Premji (@xo.farhana.balayage) uses Shades ALK 9GI (Gold Violet Iridescent) through the mids and ends to preserve luminous gold reflects. Click the beaker to reveal the full formula:

• Formula A (lightener)

  Redken Blonde IQ + 30-volume developer (1:2)

• Formula B (zone 1)

  Redken Shades ALK 4N + 6N + 10-volume developer

• Formula C (zones 2 and 3)

  Shades ALK 9GI + 10-volume developer

Don't tone away the warmth you're trying to create. Shop Redken Shades ALK.

What Placement Makes Honey Brunette Look Expensive?

A luxury honey brunette isn't built by filling every section with brightness. The placement has to stay visible after the hair is styled, which sometimes means breaking away from traditional highlight patterns.

When customizing honey brunette placement, Desiree recommends:

• Use thicker weaves on curlier hair: They help the brightness stay visible instead of disappearing within the curl pattern
• Shift more brightness through the ends: This creates a softer, lived-in finish without relying on heavy root highlights
• Leave depth between lighter sections: Negative space helps preserve the richness and movement that define honey brunette

One of the fastest ways to flatten honey brunette? Over-foiling. “Dimensional looks call for exactly that, dimension, so don’t be afraid of what’s left out of the foils,” she says.

Before adding another foil, ask yourself:

• Can I still see depth between the brighter ribbons?
• Will this placement remain visible once the hair is styled?
• Am I adding another foil because the design needs it or because the hair still looks dark while it's processing?

Tap the beaker below to reveal the gloss formula behind this textured honey brunette:

• Formula A (gloss)

  Shades ALK 9GI + Clear + developer

Shades ALK vs. Shades EQ™: Choosing the Right Demi for the Service

Hair texture and porosity are the first factors Desiree considers when choosing between Shades ALK and Shades EQ. “Especially when it comes to my textured clients with higher porosity, the hair needs to be penetrated for the color to stick and prevent the color just washing out in a couple shampoos.”

For Desiree, the decision is straightforward: She typically reaches for Shades ALK on coarser, textured or higher-porosity hair, while Shades EQ is her choice for lower-porosity or very blonde hair.

She also considers how the color will perform between appointments. “I definitely feel like the alkaline gloss sticks better in the hair than an acidic one, so it gives them some time with proper at-home maintenance.”

Lived-in color specialist Lisa Mathews (@hairbylisamathews) often combines both, using Shades ALK at the base with Shades EQ through the mids and ends for shine and a seamless tonal blend. Tap through the images to see the full formula:

The secret to richer honey brunettes isn't more warmth. Explore Redken Shades ALK and find your formula.

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