How to Avoid Holes in Long Layered Haircuts

Holes in layered haircuts are a common frustration for stylists, often caused by mismanaged tension, uneven elevation, or inconsistent overdirection. Haircutting authority, Ulta Beauty Collective Member and ARC™ Scissors Artistic Team Member Justin Toves-Vincilione (@ahappyjustin) explains that the key to avoiding this issue lies in precision and control. “When you’re layering, you need to ensure you’re pulling directly out from where the hair lives,” he says. Overdirecting too far to the left or right can create gaps in the haircut, leading to disconnected sections that fail to flow naturally.

The Role of Tension and Elevation in Long Layered Haircuts

In his BTC University class, "The Butterfly Cut," Justin emphasizes the importance of maintaining consistent tension and elevation to avoid holes. He advises stylists to communicate with their clients during the haircut to ensure they stay upright in the chair. “I let my clients know I’ll be putting a lot of tension on these sections, and I ask them to resist as I pull so they stay straight up in the chair,” he says. This technique helps create crisp lines and ensures the layers are evenly distributed.

Pro Tip: What if my client wears a side part?

Justin recommends adjusting the layering approach based on the client’s parting preference. So, if your client has a set side part, you’ll want to cut their layers off that natural part. This ensures the layers blend seamlessly and avoid disconnects, even if the client switches their parting occasionally.

Always Check For Your Guide

Another way Justin prevents holes is to ensure he's following his guide before cutting each section. To do so, he uses the outside of the scissor blade to bend the hair to reveal the shorter piece at the end of the section that represents his guide. See an example below:

Justin's Scissor of Choice:  For this haircut, Justin selects the ARC™ Scissors PARAGON II, specifically the 7-inch model, noting its ability to handle both dense and fine hair with ease. “I’m using the 7” PARAGON II scissors, and I like to work with tools that allow me to maintain tension and create crisp lines,” he explains during the class. The PARAGON II’s longer blade is ideal for vertical cutting, making it the perfect choice for the Butterfly Cut’s foundational sections.

Preventing Holes in the Perimeter

The perimeter shape is another area where holes can appear if not handled carefully. Justin recommends keeping the hair in its natural fall to avoid thinning out the ends excessively. He prefers to work from the hairline right into the center back, keeping everything in natural fall to make it easy to work through sections.